Why BiBi is the Worst and Best Indian in London
A recent TopJaw interview actor Andrew Garfield brought BiBi back into the spotlight on foodie Instagram feeds. This is not the first time BiBi, a fine dining Indian restaurant in Mayfair, has been washed with songs of praise from middle-class foodies. The South Asian small plates eatery has entrenched itself in Topjaw’s menu of fame by receiving praise from chefs and critics alike. On the whole, I trust chef opinions: this, I reasoned to myself, made the £175 set dinner seem… reasonable.
Despite the restaurant’s fame, luxury location and menu that jingles to the tune of lobster and champagne rather than bhuna and a beer, it retains a humble air. Chet Sharma, head chef and restaurant patron, has been instrumental in this. So many restaurants fall fowl to their namesakes in a fate of twisted irony: Circolo Populare might be a popular circle of TikTokers, but it lacks the warming hug you may expect from a group which calls itself Big Mamma.
BiBi, named in honour of Chet’s grandmothers, has infused its menu with the best sort of cooking. Family recipes hold magic and secrets, passed down through the veins of generations. If recreated outside of the family, they are often lacklustre. Chet’s familial influence isn’t something we can identify with, but that doesn’t matter. What we taste isn’t a recreation, but an homage to the magic that Chet’s grandmothers whipped up in kitchens. In Mayfair, where the streets are paved with corporate gold, this is a rare treasure.
Famous chefs in London are like snow in England. Highly sort after, but incredibly hard to spot. Especially in their own restaurant. With all the press interviews and demands for socialite private parties, a successful chef is a busy chef.
Seeing Chet plate up at the open kitchen counter on a busy Friday evening was a shocker. Even more surprising was that he actually spoke to us. Us! Mere, simpleton diners, who have eaten more Nando’s than Michelin. Through the calm chose, a decisive hand reached out. We tentatively walked through, carrying the air of schoolchildren being summoned by the popular teacher. He did not break into smile, but nodded to the two high chairs. As we fumbled into our seats, he looked down again with intense precision at the four small plates in front of him. We waited. He plated.
“Can I get you some water?”
A question that normally doesn’t startle may have well been uttered by Kylie Jenner in KFC. Here, a famed chef, working front line on a jam packed night, took the time to offer us some… water. The benevolence that characterises BiBi’s isn’t simply about the decor or food. It’s about the gentle charisma of its owner.
The tasting menu was, undoubtedly, one of the best I’ve tried in London. We started off with what can only be described as a savoury shot: imagine that mouthful you can’t help yourself from taking at the end of a fantastic curry, when only the sauce remains and you know you shouldn’t, but it just tastes so damn good. We were graced with the very sensation before the onslaught of eating begun. Throughout the night we were presented small bites of deliciousness: a plump scallop, lightened by oyster leaf, a cooked oyster, sharp and smokey. Two fried versions of pani puri came adorned with a nasturtium leaf, leaving what can only be described as a deep fried ball looking more like something that had been plucked from a quaint fairytale-esque pond.
To round off the savoury selections, a fantastic chicken curry, rich and complex, served alongside a crisp, fluffy roti, near-defeated us. It’s a shame this curry can’t be bought by itself. It certainly beats the half-arsed kormas I’ve had in my time.
Yes - I have sung BiBi’s praises from the depths of my lungs. So, how can it be the worst Indian?
The English understanding of an ‘Indian’ is something of a mockery. We are no means blind to this: tikka masalas, butter chicken, kormas aren’t authentic. But sometimes, that’s all we want. Labelling BiBi as ‘the best’ Indian in London denies the reality that, when we announce we’re craving an Indian, all we want is a cheap, easy to eat bowl of something hot. BiBi’s is not the type of cuisine for passive eating. It is homely, delicious, and special - if you want to avoid the pomp and pretentiousness of most Mayfair eateries, then spend your money here. But, unless you’re in the top 1% of Londoners, this most definitely isn’t a weekday treat. Head down Brick Lane or the back of Euston - you’re much more likely to satisfy your ‘Indian’ craving here.
